The Natural Wonders of Cosmetics: A Journey Through Time
In all its grandeur, nature has spent millions of years perfecting its creations. Among these marvels are the ingredients that form the botanical foundation of natural cosmetics: essential oils, hydrolats, vegetable oils, skin nutrition, and natural preservatives.
These elements, derived from the heart of nature, play a crucial role in maintaining the health, hydration, regeneration, youthfulness, firmness, and elasticity of our skin—the body's largest and most exposed organ.
The history of natural cosmetics is rich with stories of great individuals who dedicated their lives to uncovering the secrets of nature's bounty. One such figure is René-Maurice Gattefossé, a French chemist in the early 20th century. Gattefossé is often credited with founding modern aromatherapy. His journey into the world of essential oils began by accident. In 1910, while working in his laboratory, Gattefossé suffered a severe burn on his hand. Desperately seeking relief, he plunged his hand into a vat of lavender oil. To his astonishment, the pain subsided, and the burn healed rapidly without infection. This serendipitous discovery ignited his passion for essential oils and their healing properties.
Gattefossé's work laid the foundation for understanding how essential oils like lavender, rose, and chamomile could be used in skincare. He meticulously documented the therapeutic benefits of these oils, highlighting their ability to nourish, heal, and rejuvenate the skin.
In ancient times, the Egyptians were pioneers in harnessing the power of natural ingredients for skin care. Cleopatra VII, the last active ruler of the Ptolemaic Kingdom of Egypt, is renowned for her beauty and elaborate beauty rituals. Cleopatra's skincare regimen included the use of aloe vera, honey, and milk baths. These natural ingredients were known for their moisturizing and anti-aging properties, contributing to her legendary allure.
As time progressed, the knowledge of natural cosmetics spread across civilizations. In the Middle Ages, Hildegard of Bingen, a German Benedictine abbess, herbalist, and mystic, made significant contributions to the field. Hildegard's extensive writings on natural medicine and cosmetics emphasized the importance of using plant-based ingredients. She advocated for the use of herbs like rosemary, sage, and calendula to promote healthy, radiant skin.
Today, the principles laid down by these historical figures continue to guide natural cosmetics practitioners, while the industry remains largely connected with synthetic, chemical products.
Consumers are increasingly aware of the benefits of using natural preservatives, vegetable oils, and hydrolats to nourish and protect their skin in a healthy way.
The modern approach to skincare embraces the wisdom of the past, combining it with scientific advancements to create products that are both effective and environmentally friendly.
The story of natural cosmetics is a testament to the enduring power of nature and the ingenuity of the individuals who have dedicated their lives to understanding its secrets. From the legendary beauty rituals of Cleopatra, the accidental discovery of René-Maurice Gattefossé, to the herbal wisdom of Hildegard of Bingen and many others, the journey of natural cosmetics is a fascinating witnessing of history, science, and nature's timeless wisdom.
The demand for products made from bio-based materials is growing since industrial skincare, unfortunately, still uses chemicals that are proven to have negative health impacts - to increase the shelf life, texture, or appeal of those products. You can check yourself the product you frequently use, or any used ingredient, in the EWG’s Skin Deep database, which nicely lists safe and potentially risky products.
The Hidden Dangers in Our Everyday Products: A Journey Through Toxic Ingredients and Regulatory Measures
Which person did not, at least a few times in life, dream and think of everlasting beauty, youth, and immortality… Quite a few took this dream at lengths, like legendary Cleopatra, or “Blood Countess” Elizabeth Bathory of Hungary, or Madame de Pompadour… or perhaps, in the recent days, Madonna’s dream to stay “forever young”. However, that can lead to “toxic beauty” side effects, which deliver polar opposite results than originally anticipated.
In the early 20th century, the beauty and food industries were booming, but there was little oversight on the ingredients used in products. Many harmful chemicals were commonly used without any safety assessments, some of which can still be legally used. For instance, formaldehyde, a known carcinogen, was widely used in cosmetics and personal care products. Similarly, lead was used in lipsticks and mercury in skin-lightening creams.
As the decades passed, scientific research began to uncover the toxic effects of these ingredients. Studies showed that parabens, commonly used as preservatives in cosmetics, could disrupt hormonal functions. Phthalates, found in fragrances, were linked to reproductive issues. The public started to become aware of these dangers, leading to a demand for safer products.
In response to growing concerns, regulatory bodies began to take action. The European Union introduced the Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, which aimed to ensure a high level of protection for human health. This regulation required that all cosmetic products be safe for use and that manufacturers conduct safety assessments before releasing products to the market.
Similarly, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States started to enforce stricter regulations on food additives and colorants, however, in a much more relaxed way, i.e., the EU has banned over 1.300 ingredients from use in cosmetics, compared to the USA with only 11 ingredients explicitly banned.
In other words, the EU's regulatory framework for cosmetics is generally more stringent and aligned with modern scientific findings, emphasizing consumer safety and environmental protection. The FDA in the USA steps in only if people actually complain about a product because they suspect it harmed them. Before that, the onus is on the company alone. Currently, the USA is moving towards stricter oversight with the implementation of MoCRA.
Despite these regulations, the beauty and food industries continue to evolve, introducing new ingredients and complex mixtures. Nanotechnology in cosmetics and synthetic fragrances are examples of modern advancements that pose new challenges for regulators. The REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 addresses these concerns by requiring the registration, evaluation, and authorization of chemicals used in products.
However, as you can see, both the Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and The REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 are likely overdue for review, since the pace of scientific and technological progress is picking up fast, and these regulations were delivered in 2009, and 2006, respectively.
The journey towards safer products is ongoing. Consumers are becoming more educated and demanding transparency from manufacturers. Collaborations between governments, regulatory bodies, manufacturers, and consumers are crucial to ensure the safety of ingredients used in everyday products, however, there are still significant gaps to address.
As we move forward, the focus will be on continuous research, ethical ingredient sourcing, and robust regulatory measures to protect public health and well-being.
On the other hand, the consumers are becoming more aware of a simple fact – we have lived with nature since the dawn of mankind, and both us and nature have been continuously evolving together. Using natural products as the first choice is only logical since it blends the wisdoms built in human and plant kingdom DNA’s, as well as collective knowledge of humanity, which, in its simplicity, poses a threat to business interests of major global beauty industries.